Umami: Explaining the Fifth Taste of Matcha
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When you drink a good matcha for the first time, something hard to name emerges. Not sweet. Not salty. Not bitter. Something deep, savory, satisfying.
This taste has a name: umami.
What is umami?
Umami (うまみ, "savory" in Japanese) was identified as the fifth basic taste by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908. He described this sensation evoked by kelp broth (kombu) — neither sweet, nor salty, nor sour, nor bitter.
Ikeda identified glutamate as the responsible molecule. Since then, other molecules have been associated with umami: ribonucleotides (IMP, GMP) and certain amino acids, including L-theanine.
Umami in matcha: the role of shading
L-theanine is the main carrier of umami in matcha. During pre-harvest shading (3-4 weeks), reduced photosynthesis concentrates L-theanine in the leaves. The longer and more intense the shading, the higher the L-theanine — and the more pronounced the umami.
This is why a well-shaded ceremonial-grade matcha is noticeably more savory than a culinary matcha produced without shading.
Umami in practice: If, after drinking a bowl of matcha, you feel a slight salivation and a desire to take another sip, you are experiencing the effect of umami. This is the quality that Japanese tea ceremonies seek in the matchas they select.
Other umami-rich foods
Umami is not exclusive to matcha. It is found in: parmesan cheese, miso, dried shiitake mushrooms, cooked tomatoes, anchovies, soy sauce. These are foods that our cultures have intuitively placed at the heart of their cuisines.
In matcha, umami is particularly pure — not masked by salt or other complex flavors.
FAQ
Q: Do all matchas have umami?
A: No. Unshaded matchas or culinary grades have little L-theanine, and therefore little umami. Umami is a marker of quality in ceremonial matcha.
Q: How can I develop my perception of umami?
A: By drinking pure matcha, without sugar, in small sips. Let the powder linger in your mouth for a few seconds. The perception of umami comes after the first sip, in the aromatic persistence.
